The following information is either from our personal experience or gleaned from various conversations and meetings. They are certainly other methods...but it's a starting point!

This iron cleaning information is offered with NO liability or responsibility on the part of pressingironandtrivetcollectors.org!

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Cleaning Procedures:
Important Note: Test...Test...Test! Before you risk ruining a good iron, test the methods on this page on a low-value iron. If you have a high-value iron...we strongly recommend NOT cleaning it in any way. Removal of patina or paint can greatly devalue an otherwise high-value iron!

Cleaning Strategies:
There are three basic schools of thought regarding cleaning irons:

1. Do nothing to the iron...keep it as you found it.

2. Lightly clean and polish without removing the patina.

3. Completely clean the iron and make it look like new.

Personally we generally prefer strategy #2, but we know many collectors in both of the other categories. It depends on your personal taste and whether or not you intend to sell the iron in the future.

Heavy Rust:

Use a "brass" wire brush (gently please) combined with a 50/50 combination of linseed oil & turpentine. The brush removes the larger rust and the liquid acts as a lubricant and also changes the remaining red rust color into a nice patina.

Another strategy is to brush the object clean, no oil, and then spray paint it with flat black stove paint. THEN you can use the oil when the paint is dry to give it a more patina/less glossy look.

Light Rust:

Use a "soft bristle" brush (such as an old nail or tooth brush) or a VERY fine wet sandpaper combined with a 50/50 combo of linseed oil & turpentine. The brush removes the rust and the liquid acts as a lubricant for either the brush or the sandpaper preventing scratching or damage. The oil also changes the remaining red rust color into a nice patina.

Again...another strategy is to brush the object clean, no oil, and then spray paint it with flat black stove paint. THEN you can use the oil when the paint is dry to give it a more patina/less glossy look.

Iron Cleaning Agents:

Wenol®

German-made cleaning paste made with jeweler's rouge used for cleaning irons. A favorite of many collectors. Wipe on and gently buff. Polishes well, without removing plated metals. Use on brass, copper, chrome, stainless steel or pewter.

Available for $10.95 (3.9 oz. tube) and $34.95 (39.3 oz. can) from HomeTrendsCatalog.com or 1-800-810-2340. Go to their page and search for "Wenol" in the Search Box.

Flitz®

Metal Polish used for cleaning irons. Available at most hardware stores.

WD-40®

Spray lubricant may be sprayed on irons first and left to sit a while, before starting the cleaning process. Available at all hardware stores.

Sno-Bol®

Used for cleaning brass irons and fluter rollers. Actually a toilet bowl cleaner which contains hydrochloric acid. Accordingly, it can really damage irons and rollers...so be very careful using it. Available at all grocery stores.

Cleaning Fluter Rollers: Using a plastic container such as an athletic water bottle (not metal), fill the container with enough Sno-Bol® to completely cover both fluter rollers, but without the rollers in the container yet. THEN carefully place the rollers into the container, making sure they are completely covered. Set a TIMER to exactly 1 hour (no more!). You might want to experiment with the time on low value items. It is important that BOTH rollers are placed in the solution at the SAME TIME to ensure identical cleaning levels. The solution will remove the tarnish and grease off of the rollers. After the allotted time, remove both rollers and place in a bucket of clear water and scrub off the tarnish and residue with a bristle or brass (not steel since the rollers are brass and will scratch) brush and rags. Then dry the rollers and polish with Wenol or other metal polish.

Turpentine & Boiled Linseed Oil (50/50 mix)

Used for cleaning irons. Wipe on and use soft brush (such as an old tooth brush) to get into crevaces. Then wipe with a soft dry cloth. Leaves a uniform sheen covering light rust color. No glossy lacquer look.

Cape Cod Metal Polishing Cloth®

A polishing cloth useful for just a quick re-polishing of already restored pieces.

Minwax® Paste Finishing Wax

Use this paste wax to polish wooden handles. Select color according to wood handle color.

Bijen Boenwas - Bee's Wax

Used for polishing cast-iron surfaces.

Goo Gone®

Citrus-based cleaning fluid removes sticky label residue.

Marvel Lubricating Oil®

May be used with steel or brass brush wheels when removing heavy rust. Available at most hardware stores.

Steel Brush Wheels

Used for removing heavy rust on iron (never brass) objects. Use Marvel Lubricating Oil with these wheels.

Cloth Polishing Wheels

Used for polishing objects after heavy rust removal. Use low-abrasive polishing stick (rouge) with these wheels.

Electro-Chemical Cleaning:

Hans Boehm of Germany has provided this detailed description of using electro-chemistry to remove rust and other contaminents.

Click here to download a DOC file describing this procedure.

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Collector Suggestions:

Submitted by Charyl Burley:
I have always cleaned heavy rust off of the irons and other iron primitives without removing the patina by using 1 part vinegar and 3 parts water. I set the iron in this solution and after approximately 24 hours, I remove it and scrub it down with dish detergent and a regular plastic scrub brush. After draining and drying it with a towel, I will place it back into the solution, if there is more rust to remove. If not, I dry and polish the iron.

Note: If the piece has a plating, such as chrome, I check it often, since the solution can destroy the chrome finish, if left in too long. (6/1/03)

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NOTE: This iron cleaning information is offered with NO liability or responsibility on the part of pressingironandtrivetcollectors.org!